Perm-36: The fascinating and abandoned Soviet Gulag

Anastasia Kolomiets

The notorious system of Soviet forced labor camps – otherwise known as Gulags – has a horrifying and chilling history. Many memories have been suppressed and the Soviet repression apparatus still remains a vague and mysterious topic. Despite this, Perm-36 is a Gulag that has been preserved and made into a museum: the only one of its kind in Russia.

 

A 1946 barrack building designed to house 250 inmates ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
A 1946 barrack building designed to house 250 inmates ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

Perm-36 is located near the village of Kuchino, in the Chusovskoy district, approximately 62 miles northeast of the city of Perm in the Ural region. This Gulag was operational until as late as 1988. It was one of the last of the camps that held political prisoners to be closed down.

It was established in 1943 and was relocated to the Chusovskoy district in 1946. When it was opened it was called ITK-6. In its early days, the prisoners held on the site logged the area for timber.

The barrack has 4 rooms: each for 60 people. Now, 3 rooms hold exhibitions and the other room is a reconstructed Gulag room. Pictured: the first room with information about the history of Perm-36 and its buildings ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
The barrack has 4 rooms: each for 60 people. Now, 3 rooms hold exhibitions and the other room is a reconstructed Gulag room. Pictured: the first room with information about the history of Perm-36 and its buildings ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

After Stalin’s death in 1953, Nikita Khrushchev came to power. He denounced Stalin and the purges that took place under his rule, even though Khrushchev himself had been involved. In 1954, the camp became a place where employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs (MVD) were held. Officials guilty of organizing “groundless repressions” served their sentences here. These officials were mostly policemen and other law-enforcement agents.

Because these particular inmates usually knew the security systems used at these types of camps fairly well, the territory was surrounded by additional fences and the number of guards was increased to eliminate the possibility of escape.

The camp functioned like this until 1972. Since then, and until it was closed, it was made into a place where dissidents were incarcerated. It was “the harshest political camp of the country,” according to the Perm-36 Museum brochure. It was renamed VS-389/36, and became known as “Perm-36.”

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

In a state where alternative thinking was feared more than anything, this camp – with its reinforced security and remote location – ensured that dissidents and their ideas were completely isolated, rendering opposition to the regime powerless.

The people imprisoned here had views that were contrary to the official party line: dissident writers, poets, distributors of anti-communist literature, scientists, and civil rights activists were detained. Generally, they were sentenced to 10 years.

In 1980, a special regime section for “especially dangerous criminals” was established to lock up the most adamant critics of the regime. Some prisoners were imprisoned again once their sentence was over – if they managed to survive, that is – because they were labeled “recidivists”: people who repeatedly commit crimes.

Watchtower ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Watchtower ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

Many famous personalities were held here, including one of the founders of the Soviet dissident movement, the writer Vladimir Bukovsky; the poet Vasyl Stus (who died here); the nuclear physicist Yuri Orlov; and refusenik Natan Sharansky.

Inmates in the special regime section were isolated from other inmates. It was set up in a former timber-processing workshop, and the cells were locked for twenty-four hours a day.

In 1988, Perm-36 was closed. Now, the site is occupied by the Memorial Complex of Political Repressions, which was founded in 1994. The aim of the organization is to promote knowledge of Soviet repressions and make sure this warning from history is never forgotten.

Photos by Ilya Buyanovskiy.

Outside Perm-36 ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Outside Perm-36 ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Medsanchast: Medical Unit ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Medsanchast: Medical Unit ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Camp toilet ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Camp toilet ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Former canteen-cinema ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Former canteen-cinema ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

1946 barrack building. The birch alley was planted in 1954: the birches “remember” the prisoners ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
1946 barrack building. The birch alley was planted in 1954: the birches “remember” the prisoners ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Reconstruction of a Gulag room for 60 people ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Reconstruction of a Gulag room for 60 people ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Punishment cell block ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Punishment cell block ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Inside a punishment cell ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Inside a punishment cell ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Shower ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Shower ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

View of industrial zone from above ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
View of industrial zone from above ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Remains of a forge ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Remains of a forge ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Sawmill ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Sawmill ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Control checkpoint ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Control checkpoint ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

View of the special regime section ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
View of the special regime section ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

Administrative building ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
Administrative building ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

A former timber-processing workshop – where special regime cells were set up ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
A former timber-processing workshop – where special regime cells were set up ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

View of Chusovaya river ©Ilya Buyanovskiy
View of Chusovaya river ©Ilya Buyanovskiy

 

©Ilya Buyanovskiy
©Ilya Buyanovskiy